LA’s taco culture also benefits enormously from its proximity to Mexico, via Tijuana-chefs here source everything from ingredients to ceramics from Tijuana, helping to complete the dining experience. There’s a lot more space to grow as a Mexican regional restaurant here because there are entire communities that fuel demand for it. That makes for a huge amount of regional Mexican cooking, and also a hungry audience for all of those different regional cuisines. LA has such a rich and diverse population of people who have immigrated from all over Mexico. The first is the city’s immigrant population. There are a couple of factors that make LA’s taco scene more robust than Texas’s, New York’s, or even San Francisco’s. The best tacos in LA right now include rich, saucy goat birria, smoky, mesquite-grilled asada, and tender, slow-braised cabeza. Over the 18 years that I’ve been writing about food in the city, I’ve seen the taco scene evolve from the same five tacos (asada, carnitas, tripa, al pastor, and chicken), to tacos that now represent hyper-regional approaches honoring places such as Puebla, Sinaloa, and Oaxaca, to name just a few. There are so many different styles being cooked across the city, from regional classics to vegan variations-but it wasn’t always like this. This is perhaps the most exciting time (dare I say ever?) to love tacos in LA. So when in search of the very best tacos in LA, we turned to Cabral to put together a guide. ’ Whether you’re after tacos packed with mesquite–grilled asada or slow-cooked tripe, he’s your guy. TACO, a coauthor of a cookbook about Mexican grilling, and a taco curator for Netflix’s ‘Taco Chronicles. Now, Cabral is the editor of the James Beard Award–winning food and culture website L.A. At 21, he became a restaurant scout for legendary ‘Los Angeles Times’ restaurant critic Jonathan Gold. Javier Cabral is an LA-based journalist who has been writing about food professionally since he was a teen.
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